At some point someone told me that Venice was decrepit, smelly, and dead. They were so wrong.
View from the Rialto Bridge. Down to the right under the red awnings is where I ate dinner on my first night here!
Monday, August 27, 2012
The Vaporetto
I've mentioned it a fair amount, so I might as well show you what the vaporetto is. Essentially, it is the cheapest way to travel around Venice by water (unless you have your own boat). Throughout the city, especially on the Grand Canal, there are enclosed stops. They have yellow bands with the name of the stop around the top of the structure. For 7 euro, you can stay on a vaporetto for 60 minutes and take one of the many lines to any stop in the city. The boat docks at each stop and has both enclosed seating and outdoor standing. Pretty nifty, huh?
A shot of the vaporetto boat from the water. Each line has boats going in both directions.
Wandering's the Thing...
...and wander I did for most of my first full day in Venice.
My initial wandering took me back to the Rialto bridge. This time around it was swarming with crowds: people catching the view on the outside sections and people shopping on the interior. One thing's for sure, there is never a shortage of Venetian shops selling masks, striped shirts, and Murano glass.
One of my favorite sights while wandering was a couple in wedding garb having their photo taken on the Rialto bridge. Based on the specific/kitschy nature of the girl's wedding dress and a certain lack of chemistry between the pairing, I have a feeling that it was a photo shoot for something or other and that the guy and girl were hired models.
After the bridge, I wandered through the food market. It closes at 12 during the week, so I was a little late, but I got to see the few stalls that hadn't closed shop yet. Basically it consists of dozens of tables where people set up shop and sell everything from fruit to fish in a crowded area.
From here I wandered down thin alleys and took far too many pictures of Italian architecture and gondoliers.
Eventually, I wandered to Piazza San Marco. During the day, the piazza is flooded with sunlight and tourists. After a quick scoop of gelato, I hopped on line to see St. Mark's Basilica (or should I say the Basilica Cattedrale Patriarcale di San Marco). Unfortunately, you can't take pictures inside, but oh how I wish that I could have. The arched and domed ceiling predominantly gives off a golden hue and is covered in mosaic tiles. At multiple points throughout the mosaics form pictures of saints or of stories. The grandeur of the basilica is made even better by the Pala d'Oro.
You have to pay 2 euro to see this Byzantine masterpiece, but it's a brilliant gold with precious stones and tells the story of St. Mark.
After touring the Basilica, I walked along the Riva degli Schiavoni and took a vaporetto back to the stop nearest my hotel.
My initial wandering took me back to the Rialto bridge. This time around it was swarming with crowds: people catching the view on the outside sections and people shopping on the interior. One thing's for sure, there is never a shortage of Venetian shops selling masks, striped shirts, and Murano glass.
The Rialto Bridge
One of my favorite sights while wandering was a couple in wedding garb having their photo taken on the Rialto bridge. Based on the specific/kitschy nature of the girl's wedding dress and a certain lack of chemistry between the pairing, I have a feeling that it was a photo shoot for something or other and that the guy and girl were hired models.
The happy "couple"?
After the bridge, I wandered through the food market. It closes at 12 during the week, so I was a little late, but I got to see the few stalls that hadn't closed shop yet. Basically it consists of dozens of tables where people set up shop and sell everything from fruit to fish in a crowded area.
People at the market.
From here I wandered down thin alleys and took far too many pictures of Italian architecture and gondoliers.
Wandering through the winding streets of Venice. Ciao!
I wandered here, there, and everywhere!
Eventually, I wandered to Piazza San Marco. During the day, the piazza is flooded with sunlight and tourists. After a quick scoop of gelato, I hopped on line to see St. Mark's Basilica (or should I say the Basilica Cattedrale Patriarcale di San Marco). Unfortunately, you can't take pictures inside, but oh how I wish that I could have. The arched and domed ceiling predominantly gives off a golden hue and is covered in mosaic tiles. At multiple points throughout the mosaics form pictures of saints or of stories. The grandeur of the basilica is made even better by the Pala d'Oro.
You have to pay 2 euro to see this Byzantine masterpiece, but it's a brilliant gold with precious stones and tells the story of St. Mark.
The Basilica. They were doing work on the top left side of the building, so I cut it off in a lot of my pictures.
After touring the Basilica, I walked along the Riva degli Schiavoni and took a vaporetto back to the stop nearest my hotel.
Sunday, August 26, 2012
First Evening in Venice
According to the books and the general vibe, Venice is a city in which one can and should wander. I don't think I could tell you the names of many streets, but you get the hang of things by sight and there are multiple signs that point you down alleys to get to the city's main attractions.
On my first night in Venice, I headed in the general direction of the Rialto Bridge. This bridge is one of the few that traverses the Grand Canal and is probably the most famous one in Venice. On the exterior, one can find amazing views down the canal and to the streets below. On the interior of the bridge, you can find a plethora of shops. While tricky to navigate on the steps, they do offer some great Venetian masks and people watching.
Foscari Palace (the hotel I'm staying at) is on the same side of the Grand Canal as the Piazza San Marco (home to Venice's most famous sites...and most reproduced if you can't The Venetian in Las Vegas and Disney World). Dinner on my first night brought me over the Rialto Bridge, to the other side of the Grand Canal, and to a seat along the water at Ristorante Terrazza Sommariva.
While I can't say many nice things about the waitstaff, I can say wonderful things about the food and the view.
The wine of choice for the night was a Cabernet Sauvignon that was bottled in Venice. Before coming to Italy, my lovely best friend and roomie had told me that I must try langoustines with pasta. While I didn't have the pasta this time around, I did try the langoustines and they were delicious. The best way I can describe my scampi alla griglia is a cross-breed of shrimp and lobster that tastes like shrimp. In any case, I was a happy camper.
Though music wasn't in abundance, the soft sound of water lapping against the gondola boats and sides of the canal provided the perfect background noise to the subtle lighting and darkening night sky. It definitely wasn't difficult to make dinner a multi-hour affair.
On my first night in Venice, I headed in the general direction of the Rialto Bridge. This bridge is one of the few that traverses the Grand Canal and is probably the most famous one in Venice. On the exterior, one can find amazing views down the canal and to the streets below. On the interior of the bridge, you can find a plethora of shops. While tricky to navigate on the steps, they do offer some great Venetian masks and people watching.
Foscari Palace (the hotel I'm staying at) is on the same side of the Grand Canal as the Piazza San Marco (home to Venice's most famous sites...and most reproduced if you can't The Venetian in Las Vegas and Disney World). Dinner on my first night brought me over the Rialto Bridge, to the other side of the Grand Canal, and to a seat along the water at Ristorante Terrazza Sommariva.
The view from my seat (part one).
While I can't say many nice things about the waitstaff, I can say wonderful things about the food and the view.
The wine of choice for the night was a Cabernet Sauvignon that was bottled in Venice. Before coming to Italy, my lovely best friend and roomie had told me that I must try langoustines with pasta. While I didn't have the pasta this time around, I did try the langoustines and they were delicious. The best way I can describe my scampi alla griglia is a cross-breed of shrimp and lobster that tastes like shrimp. In any case, I was a happy camper.
The wine and my eating utensils (having never used anything like them before, I was slightly intimidated).
The langoustines (scampi alla griglia).
Though music wasn't in abundance, the soft sound of water lapping against the gondola boats and sides of the canal provided the perfect background noise to the subtle lighting and darkening night sky. It definitely wasn't difficult to make dinner a multi-hour affair.
The view (part two).
The Train to Venice
After a couple days in Florence, it was time to take a quick jaunt over to Venice for the weekend. I must say, with the exception of my train being delayed by 25 minutes, this type of travel was smooth and painless. My Trenitalia train car was very nice and mainly consisted of groups of four seats that faced each other (as two and two) with tables in the middle and even plugs between the seats. I spent most of my time hurtling along at approximately 70mph listening to music and reading. Much of the trip took place in tunnels, so I wasn't missing much of a view.
However, as it approached Venice, things got more interesting: i.e. water. The water in question is the Laguna Veneta, which is the enclosed bay of the Adriatic sea. If you're curious, Venice is 160 miles from Florence.
Known for its canals, there are no cars on the streets of Venice. In fact, many of the streets wouldn't come close to being able to fit a car on them. Personally, I think it adds to the charm. Getting around either takes place by walking or by water.
From the train station, I took the vaporetto (water bus) to the stop nearest my hotel. For 7 euro, you can stay on the waterbus for 60 minutes, so it's a pretty good way to cheaply view the city by water (trust me, it's well worth it). It travels along the Grand Canal, so you're right in the heart of things. If you need to go through some of the smaller interior canals, you have to take a water taxi (expensive) or a gondola.
Here I'm staying at the Foscari Palace. Gorgeous and right on the Grand Canal, it used to be a real palace. It was built in 1520. Details in the room allude to the grandeur of its past. The ceilings are intricate and there's a huge stone fireplace by the bed. And my room's windows happen to offer up sweeping views.
What a perfect introduction to Venizia.
The general trajectory from Florence to Venice (courtesy of Google Maps).
How Venice is situated (courtesy of Google Maps).
Water view from the train
Known for its canals, there are no cars on the streets of Venice. In fact, many of the streets wouldn't come close to being able to fit a car on them. Personally, I think it adds to the charm. Getting around either takes place by walking or by water.
From the train station, I took the vaporetto (water bus) to the stop nearest my hotel. For 7 euro, you can stay on the waterbus for 60 minutes, so it's a pretty good way to cheaply view the city by water (trust me, it's well worth it). It travels along the Grand Canal, so you're right in the heart of things. If you need to go through some of the smaller interior canals, you have to take a water taxi (expensive) or a gondola.
Room at the Foscari Palace.
The bottle of complimentary prosecco (my first taste of the stuff!) it came with.
The huge fireplace.
Here I'm staying at the Foscari Palace. Gorgeous and right on the Grand Canal, it used to be a real palace. It was built in 1520. Details in the room allude to the grandeur of its past. The ceilings are intricate and there's a huge stone fireplace by the bed. And my room's windows happen to offer up sweeping views.
What a perfect introduction to Venizia.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)