Fete de la Musique

            All types of bands covered the streets of Paris this evening for the Fete de la Musique. Started in France in 1976, Fete de la Musique started as a way to celebrate the start of summer and the musical arts. While shopping today, I saw a band sitting on the washing machines of a laverie on Rue Étienne-Marcel. After dinner, I saw three men playing guitar (one had a pink one) by the main church in Alésia. A little further down was another band playing French music. Right next to them: a guy selling cups of beer from two kegs at a little stand. 

            Along with the plethora of street performers spread throughout Paris (more than usual) were other more legitimate concerts. Stages were erected with band line-ups in various parts of the city. The one I saw was in Denfert-Rochereau. What I found incredibly funny here was that the stage was set up right next to the entrance to the Catacombs and all of the people were sitting in the area surrounding it. And when I say "all of the people," I mean numbers equivalent to Central Park SummerStage crowds. Just think, all of those people were drinking and eating (yes, it's legal to consume alcoholic beverages in public here) approximately 130 steps above piles of skulls and bones. 

            Supposedly, the rowdiest party is in the Saint Michel area, but I didn't dare to venture that far. Instead, I leisurely walked back to my room with my friend as we watched the masses of people (the three boys wearing bright yellow and black wigs were our favorites) and enjoyed the faint sounds of music drifting through the air. 

Café de Flore

            I've already told you about Café Deux Magots and now it's time to tell you about its rival, counterpart, and historical partner: Café de Flore. Built in 1887 on the corner of Boulevard Saint-Germain-des-Pres and Rue St. Benoit, Café de Flore has hosted numerous patrons and movements throughout the years. Supposedly, it was where Surrealism was born. People such as Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir were known to sit there for days.

Outside at Café de Flore (My apologies for the photo quality)

            In 2012, with its red booth interiors, mirror-paneled walls, and copious amounts of wraparound outdoor seating, Café de Flore often sees the likes of the world's elite. One person of extreme interest to me: Karl Lagerfeld.

            As of this moment, I have frequented Café de Flore twice. Both times I sat with a café creme (a.k.a. coffee with milk), that cost me €5.50, for approximately two hours. Thus far I have not seen Mr. Lagerfeld.

            However, on my last visit, my friend and I chose to sat inside rather than outside; the people watching is great. The tables along the inside wall with windows are all reserved. If you're looking out through the main door of the restaurant from the inside, the manager sits at the far right table with a stack of papers. Taking phone calls on occasion, he has a view of the kitchens and the rest of his café. When people (to whom the reserved tables belong) arrive, they greet him and chat for a while. We assume that they have to be important.

            My personal favorite find was an older couple. The man wore glasses, had a mostly white-haired head, and wore black. His partner in crime was a gray-haired woman, also in glasses, and also in all black. The two sat on the same side of their booth and drank coffee for an hour. Conversation was minimal to nonexistent and their faces did not show a single feeling. As quietly as they came, they left. They may sound boring, but they certainly piqued my curiosity. 

Café Creme

            As a final Café anecdote for the moment: Jefferson Hack (co-founder of Dazed & Confused magazine) bought a Café de Flore ashtray and uses it at home. 

Day Nine: Metro Pass Trouble and Some Shopping

            If you haven't stayed in Paris for a while, you might not know that the long-term subway passes are called Navigo cards. They cannot just be bought at simple ticket machines and they require a passport-style photograph. Seeing that I'm here for the entire month of June, getting such a pass is not just wise...it's a necessity, that at approximately 65 euros, is actually a money saver. 

            Probably one of the coolest aspects of it is how it works. You merely have to hit your card on top of a purple pad at any subway turnstile to be let in. 

            That being said, the second day of my program seemed to be the ideal time to get such a pass. No such luck though. Normally, the subway station that my living quarters are closest to would sell these passes. However, it is under construction this month and Navigos were not available. Such a problem/purchase would have to be solved later. 

            But on we went to the Bon Marché and my Navigo card would have to wait another day. The words "bon marché" can be translated as "good deal." One of the funniest anecdotes that my survival French teacher made in our class was that the products sold at the Bon Marché are almost anything but a bon marché. Like the Galeries Lafayette, the Bon Marché is one of the most prominent department stores in Paris, and is often considered to be the first department store in the world. Founded by Aristide Boucicaut in 1838, it progressively grew into what it is today throughout the rest of the 19th century. Gustade Eiffel (whose work you might recognize...a.k.a. the Eiffel Tower) was a consultant on the project. 

            Located on Rue de Sevres in the 6th arrondisement, Le Bon Marché consists of a clothing/accessories/cosmetics store and La Grande Épicerie (a very high end food store). The two are on opposite sides of Rue du Bac, but are connected by an elevated pathway. 

The Two Buildings of Le Bon Marché (Click to Enlarge)

            In the clothing store you can find everything from Alexander McQueen to Repetto shoes. Not to mention beautiful displays (such as cars in wicker). The window displays here are also very interesting as they normally show off only one or two items within a gorgeous yet simple scene. 

            Most of the merchandise there was far out of my price range, but it is still worth a visit if you are in Paris and care about fashion. Although it might be wise to note that the salespeople are not very fond of you touching the clothes in the store. 

Inside the Store

One of the Displays

            Walking around such a big store eventually makes one hungry, so I walked around with a few friends and ended up at a cute café/brasserie named Le Parisien. The Croque Madame there was very good and everything was decently priced. It had a nice atmosphere that is only minimally showed off by my photograph and our waiter was very kind. Overall, a very good find.
            After dinner, two friends and I walked around a little more in search of Cafe de Flore...but this magical café deserves to have a post in and of itself. So you'll have to wait just a bit longer to find out about my times there.

Inside Le Parisien

A Quick Note

            Based on the nature of the program that I'm doing and how it allocates my time in Paris, posts from this point on will not be day-logs, but rather logs of specific places/things/and outings specific to my life in Paris. 

           Also, due to unknown reasons, a piece inside my 18-200mm Sigma lens came loose. That being said, I am sorry to depart from my Nikon D5100 for the rest of my time in Paris. But have no fear! I still have a Canon Powershot that takes great photos!

Day Eight: Let the Fashion Begin

Photos Taken: 0?
What I Wore: Black leggings, nude flats, a white flowy shirt, and a pink jacket.
Meals Eaten: 2
Something I learned: If you're taking the RER, you need your ticket to get both in and out of the station. If you're taking the Metro, you only need it to get in.

            While I've been doing quite a bit of touristy traveling here in Paris thus far, you should probably know that the main reason I'm here is to take part in Paris Fashion Institute's June program. Established in 1976, the program is run by Joan P. White. What makes it stand out among other programs is that you're learning about the industry from professionals within it and guest lecturers come in to speak on a weekly basis. 

            So, after staying in the Saint Michel area for a week, I re-packed my bags and headed down to the 14th arrondisement. My room here is quite large and I immediately "nested" by putting posters and picture frames around my bed and desk. Feels much better than having sterile off-white walls.

Me in My New Room

            After settling in for a few hours, the program (which even entails classes on weekends!) got off to a productive start. Immediately after Orientation we went to see a Cristobal Balenciaga and Comme des Garcons (White Drama) exhibit at the Cite de la Mode et du design. The building itself is an industrial green-colored structure on quai d'Austerlitz. The gray day and the sharp architecture had a very cold effect. However, the exhibits were both absolutely incredible. The first presented the works of Cristobal Balenciaga alongside his inspirations. Seeing the design of a vintage fabric manifest itself in jewelry or the shape of a matador's bolero take new form in a jacket was inspiring. The Comme des Garcons exhibit displayed Rei Kawakubo's White Drama collection in clear-plastic blow-up balls. 

            After this wave of visual stimuli, I began quite a different kind of adventure: grocery shopping in Paris. I went to a Supermarché in the 14th to buy a few supplies and breakfast food. Fruit here seemed to be the same. While the strawberries were much smaller, I was able to get Fuji apples and bananas. Then came the cereal. Almost all of the cereals had different names or were things that I had never seen before. One of the few exceptions was Special K, which I gladly purchased (seems like a fitting cereal brand for this Cosmopolitan K to be eating, no?). 

            Instead of being very wide and extensive, this supermarché was thin, but extended back endlessly. Junk food has minimal shelf space here and Reese's are not to be found. However, if you want cheese, come to a supermarket in France...the options are endless. 

            Eventually it was time to pay and when I went to use my credit card, it didn't work. "Uh-oh," I thought to myself, "maybe things are off to a harder start than I originally thought." Many credit card machines here (including some in the metro) have a slot that can fit about half of a credit card in it. You're supposed to put the card in and then take it out. So, I did this once. And then I did it again. It didn't work. Luckily, I had euros on me. Only later did I learn that in Europe many cards have a "chip" on the front of them. This "chip" is what is read by all machines that have that kind of slot in them. Unfortunately, American cards don't have said "chips" on them. A piece of advice/information for future travelers: Swipe cards are accepted at restaurants and most supermarkets, but they do not work at most ticket machines in the Metro stations. 

Le Depart Saint Michel

            Grocery shopping and orientation behind me, I ended up having dinner with my parents at Le Depart Saint Michel. Their Salade de Poulet est tres delicieux. Dessert was yet another crepe from Creperie Saint Germain. With the first evening of my program done, I only had one thing left to say: Let The Fashion Begin. 

Day Seven: I've Already Been Here For A Week?!

Pictures Taken: 101
Outfit: Jeans, Sperrys, and a blush colored shirt with a tie in the back and front detailing.
Meals Eaten: 3
Something I learned: You can visit history at the Louvre. The medieval moat that was once part of its main infrastructure has been kept and put on display there.

            Amazingly, time flies in the "city of lights" (or should I say City of Daylight based on the average time of sunset). Clearly, the only way to rightfully finish up my first week in Paris, was to have Breakfast in America, literally. Breakfast in America (B.I.A.) was a guidebook find that seemed to quirky to pass up. Started by Craig Carlson who went to film school and moved to Paris to work on a television show, B.I.A. has classic diner decor and great food. In fact, it was the lack of "good ol' American breakfast food" that gave Carlson the idea to start it in the first place. 

Outside of B.I.A.

            Located at 17 rue des Ecole, B.I.A. offers pancakes, French toast, and a bottomless mug o' joe. As I sat and ate my chocolate chip pancakes, I had the pleasure of watching two job interviews take place for new waitresses at one of the booths. Apparently, it is a requirement that B.I.A. employees speak English, but they do not have to be fluent in French. Intriguing. The staff was lovely and it was a nice "taste" of home. 

            After Breakfast in America, it was time to get back to all things French. A short walk took me to the Church of St. Etienne du Mont. If you've seen Woody Allen's film Midnight in Paris, you might recognize the steps of the church and its winding side street. This is the location in which Owen Wilson is picked up by the car that transports him to another time. Aside from the general look of the street, you can tell that it is one and the same based on the cement cylinders with black chain connecting them. If you haven't seen Midnight in Paris, watch it. It is one of my all-time favorite films and I happen to be listening to the soundtrack as I write this post. 

The Magical Street from Midnight in Paris

            What better way to follow a movie location than with an art museum? Today, I went to the Louvre. Containing approximately 35,000 objects, the Palais du Louvre was built as a fortress in the 12th century and opened as a museum in 1793. In 1874 it attained its current shape and in 1988 it gained the famous (or infamous) Louvre Pyramid (designed by architect I. M. Pei). The Inverted Pyramid was completed in 1993 and within 10 years of its completion Louvre attendance doubled. 

            The first time I had ever gained exposure to the Louvre was while watching Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen's movie Passport to Paris. Unknowingly, the second time was when I first saw Funny Face. The third time was when I read The Da Vinci Code by Dan Brown. However, never could I have possibly imagined its grandeur and the fact that it is impossible to cover even a small portion of its 652,300 square feet in a day. 

The Louvre Pyramid (Scandalously I Have Not Seen The Inverse One)

            One of the first objects of art that I saw was the Winged Victory of Samothrace. With flights of stairs leading up to it, one can only stare at it in awe. Or in recognition. I had never realized it, but in Funny Face (which is another favorite and must-see) there is a photo shoot sequence. One piece of the sequence involves Audrey Hepburn walking down a flight of steps in a red dress telling Fred Astaire to "take the picture! take the picture!" Little did I realize, but those stairs are in the Louvre and the statue behind her is the Winged Victory. As I stood there looking up at it, I could only feel waves of excitement and magic making my skin tingle. 

Winged Victory

The Scene From Funny Face (citation here)

            Next I walked through halls of Italian painters' works. It was funny to see the coloring of some of the skin, the creepiness of some baby faces, and the way the crowds got heavier as you headed toward the Mona Lisa. 

            When it comes to the Mona Lisa, I was expecting to be underwhelmed. People had always told me that it was very small; that the mounds of people surrounding it were annoying. While it is not my favorite painting, I will say that it is worth seeing in person. It is worth pushing your way to the front of the crowd to see the painting with two "beware of pickpockets" signs right next to it. It is not to be missed. 

            Entering crowds like the ones around the Mona Lisa, I was shocked when I ended up completely alone in a hallway of the Louvre later in the day. It was one of my favorite moments as it felt like a movie where anything could happen and I could peacefully take in the art around me. 

            Lunch was on the mezzanine level of the Denon wing. Here I ate my fruit salad and took in a view of not only the Louvre grounds, but some of its paintings as well. Some of my favorites in the museum included Eugene Delacroix's "Mort de Sardanapale" and Jean-Louis David's depiction of the coronation of Napoleon and Josephine. 

Another Favorite: The Louvre's Very Own Moat

            Dinner once again took place at Pizza Marzano overlooking Notre Dame and the Saint Michel area. Their margherita pizza and tiramisu are simply divine. 

Day Six: A Dream Is A Wish Your Heart Makes - Disneyland Paris

Number of Pictures Taken: 92
Oufit: American Eagle jeggings, Madewell striped tank top, Sperrys
Meals Eaten: Three
Something I learned: When scouting locations for EuroDisney, the final four contenders were two towns in France and two towns in Spain.

            If you didn't know this about me already, I might as well start out by telling you that I'm obsessed with Disney. Favorite animated Disney movie? The Little Mermaid. Favorite Princess? Either Belle or Ariel. Number of times I've been to Disney World? Too many to count. Favorite resort? The Polynesian. Favorite Park? Magic Kingdom. Favorite ride? Splash mountain. Favorite ride at another Disney theme park? The Alice in Wonderland ride (it goes outside, it should be in EVERY park, and I love the Fantasyland rides in general). Other random facts: I collect Disney pins, I will always call Hollywood Studios MGM, and I get giddy when I step on a Monorail and hear "por favor mantenganse alejado de las puertas."

            That being said, it should be no surprise that I checked out Disneyland Paris during my first week here. After waiting for the RER train to come (it was thirty minutes late), I began the 50-minute ride to Marne-la-Villée (a Paris suburb where Disneyland Paris is located). Construction for the main park (its equivalent to Magic Kingdom in Florida and California) began in 1988. It opened in 1992 and the Walt Disney Studios park opened in 2002. According to my research, there are seven hotels associated with the resort, each with an American theme.

The Entrance to the Park

Sleeping Beauty's Castle

            Upon stepping out of the train station, which places you directly at the entrance to their version of Downtown Disney and the entrances to both parks, I sped-walked to the area where I bought my 1-day park hopper pass. In I went and began my journey down Main Street, U.S.A.. It was great. It's the one place in the park where all of the signs are in English and they play the same music that they do in Florida. In fact, the Ice Cream and Hot Dog shops that are at the end of Main Street are the same both here and in Florida (except the ice cream here is Ben and Jerry's, which is way better).

            Once you hit the end of Main Street, you begin to approach Sleeping Beauty's castle. It was love at first sight. I had seen the model before, but the real thing is so much better. Pink with curving staircases, the castle is enchanting. You can also walk through it to a much greater extent than castles at other Disney theme parks. The coolest part? The dragon from Sleeping Beauty is in the dungeon of the castle. And it moves. And blows smoke.

The Dragon

            While something was lacking in the atmosphere of the park (and while the employees weren't nearly as nice and Disney-trained as the ones in Florida and California), it does do two things better: It's A Small World and Pirates of the Caribbean. Small World is vastly more involved and differentiated than in the other two parks. It has Canadian ice hockey players, a Hollywood section, and more. Pirates follows the California model by having a restaurant looking into it, is longer, more extensive, and includes two drops. It also has the Pinocchio ride and a much darker version of Snow White (or should I say Blanche Neige et les Sept Nains?).

It's a Small World

            On the other hand, Space Mountain: Mission 2 is the absolute worst roller coaster I have ever been on. It seemed like it had cool mise-en-scene and it went upside down, but it was so rough that my eyes were closing as my head slammed back-and-forth against the harness at a rapid pace. Highly uncomfortable.

            Walt Disney Studios does try. They have a cute movie called Cinemagique, which is like a cheap version of The Great Movie Ride that consists of a movie starring Martin Short and Julie Delpy. Tower of Terror is basically just as good. They have an interesting take on the main street of it (they made it a sound stage with facades in one big building and little kids can get their faces painted in big stage mirrors with lights framing them), but it's lacking in atmosphere and rides. The Stars 'n Cars parade however, is a must.

Main Entrance of Walt Disney Studios

            Overall, Disneyland Paris (or EuroDisney) is good. It's a little cartoonish at times as some of the structures are a little too sleek an the layout is not intuitive. However, it was a worthwhile trip and happy slice of Disney magic. And I might have gone on Pirates and It's a Small World twice. And I never waited in a line for more than 20 minutes. Not too shabby.

Main Street at Night

Me on Main Street!

            After Disney, I trained back to Paris and fell asleep holding my new Chip stuffed animal. Maybe dreams really do come true. 

Day Five: "Let Them Eat Cake" - A Trip to Versailles

Number of Photos Taken: 336
Outfit: Navy tank dress with white polka dots
Meals Eaten: 3
Something I learned: Marie Antoinette never actually said "Let them eat cake."

            In an effort to make it to Versailles as early in the day as possible, breakfast was simply pain au chocolat and a Grande Espresso Frappuccino (the French equivalent of a Grande Coffee Frappuccino) at the Starbucks by Rue Danton on Boulevard Saint Germain des Pres. Even though it was only my second trip to this Starbucks, I've already started recognizing some "regulars." There's one gray-haired homeless man who tends to wear yellow and has a very scraggly yet friendly look. Every morning he goes to Starbucks with some money that he has scrounged up, enjoys a drink and some kind of food, uses the bathroom to clean up, and sits happily at one of the outdoor tables. The workers seem to recognize and know him and are almost more friendly in his presence than in the presence of the average customer. Upstairs, there is a white-haired man who likes to sit in one of the two armchairs by the long line of windows that look out on the street. Finally, on my way back, there is a homeless woman with very young puppies. The puppies play in a box and look somewhat dirty, but are also very cute. The woman wears a scarf on her head and has a weathered face. Each one is a character in and of themselves and I've grown curious as to what their lives have been like and what has led them to their current positions in these moments of observation.

            Next stop was the Saint Michel Metro Station where I hopped on a RER C train to Versailles. Note: When taking the RER you must always keep your ticket with you as you need it to exit the subway station at your destination. You also need to pay more for a ticket to somewhere outside of Paris, than you would for a normal Metro Ticket.

            The train ride lasted for approximately 35 minutes and in that time I was graced by the musical stylings two accordion players. I never get tired of hearing La Vie En Rose. Once off the train, I stepped into a fairly urban looking section of the town of Versailles. I envisioned that you might find the kind of strip mall where I bought my ticket in Southern California. While the architecture wasn't very French, it was a very handy ticket stand as you can also buy tickets for the Louvre and Disneyland Paris there. According to the signs on their windows, it takes a minimum of 5 hours to see Versailles and all of its gardens.

Versailles from Behind (click to enlarge)

            By the time I entered the palace, it was around 1pm (or 13h). While I had expected grandeur, I had never fully envisioned its immense size. The palace, which was the center of French political power between 1682 and 1789, is HUGE. And while the back has a consistent architectural style, the front is made up of many different types of building faces. Each room overwhelms you with its proportions and the beautiful detailed paintings on its ceilings.

A Room in the Palace

            My personal interest in Versailles mainly came from a long-time interest in Marie Antoinette. I remember being in elementary school and reading the Marie Antoinette book from the Royal Diaries series and being fascinated. Since then, internet research and Sofia Coppola's film Marie Antoinette have kept that interest alive. An audio tour was provided, but eventually the tour of the palace felt monotonous. The lack of furniture made it difficult to envision what the rooms were like (and how they were used) in the 18th century. However, the grounds of Versailles make up for anything that the palace lacks.

The Royal Diaries Book Cover (citation here)

The Marie Antionette Movie Trailer

            After a quick ham and cheese sandwich from the Salon de thé Angelina (which is located in the palace after the tour), I made my way to the exterior. Beauty struck me from every angle as I headed toward the Grand Canal. Music was piped through hidden speakers as the fountains burst in all their glory. Heading toward the Petit Trianon, I grabbed a cone of fraise and cassis sorbetto. Getting lost only once in a maze of immaculately cut shrubbery and beautiful more wild lines of trees, I finally found Marie Antoinette's private space.

            The Petit Trianon was designed by Ange-Jacques Gabriel and was constructed between 1762 and 1768. It was originally meant for Louis XV's mistress Madame de Pompadour, but the first woman to actually live in it was her successor (Madame du Barry). After Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette moved into the palace, Louis XVI gave it to Marie Antoinette as her private space. Guests could only visit it if she invited them personally. The great thing about this part of the tour was the furniture and size of the building. It reminded me a lot of Rosecliff in Newport, RI.

The Petit Trianon

            As I eventually sat by the Grand Canal, giving my feet a moment's rest, I watched crew teams practicing and a little boy enjoying the freedom of riding his bike in the surrounding area as his mother watched from afar. Dinner came late and I watched the sun set at ten minutes of ten from my seat at Pizza Marzano. Overlooking Notre Dame and the Saint Michel area, I finished by fusilli pasta avec sauce quatre fromages and thought back on a wonderful day in France. 

Some other fun facts to leave you with:

• It cost approximately (the equivalent of) $2 billion dollars to build Versailles
• It is still used today for tourism, as well as meetings of the Assemblée Nationale when the French Constitution is revised and amended.
• Current preservation effects are being made. Much of the silk pieces in the chambre de la reine and chambre de roi are reproductions made with 18th century fabric (which makes sense as I was originally surprised at the amount of unregulated sunlight entering the rooms). They are in the process of trying to buy back much of the original furniture, however this is difficult as it is a hot commodity on the international collector's market. 
• When the royal family did live at Versailles, dinners were often held at 10pm in front of an audience of courtiers and other associations of the royal family. An audience was also presence during the king and queen's morning wake-up routines...can't imagine what that must have been like for the person just waking up.