Saturday, August 25, 2012

More food!

Dinner on my second night in Florence took place in the Piazza della Repubblica at a restaurant called Pescerosso (I'm assuming it's a play on the Italian word for goldfish (pesce rosso). Once again, it was more of a touristy spot, but the touristy restaurants seem to offer the best views of the historic part of Florence and I want to soak in as much as possible.

Pescerosso from the outside...

...and in. 

I had passed the Piazza della Repubblica on the taxi ride from the airport to my hotel and remembered it for its huge arch and carousel. I don't know much about the area and its contents other than their beauty, but I'll let you know when I find out more/get a chance to do some research.

Dinner consisted of bruschetta and penne with shrimp in a kind of olive oil/basil sauce (scrumdidliumptious with a perfect portion size). Unfortunately it was only when I was a few bites from being done that I realized I hadn't taken a picture. Bottled water (somehow the request for tap water didn't go through yet again) and Chianti were the drinks of choice.

The wine. 

Throughout the course of the meal I looked out on the piazza, watching those little blue lights flying into the sky and drifting back to the cobblestone streets, while the sounds of a man playing classics such as Besame Mucho on his base drifted in the air.

After dinner, I languidly strolled back to my hotel, gelato in hand. As I walked through the Piazza della Signoria, I came upon a huge band playing jazzy music right outside of the Palazzo Vecchio. The audience clapped along at a few points and took advantage of any step they could find a seat on. Past the Piazza della Signoria, I walked through the Piazzale degli Uffizi (as in the walkway that passes by the museum), and made my way to the Ponte Vecchio.

No matter how many times I seem to end up here, it always feels a little different. Whether it's magic in the air or the difference in street performers, I don't know, but I love it all the same.

Some Views From the Top - Click to Enlarge!




Climbing the Duomo

Pizza for breakfast was definitely necessary fueling for the long trek that was ahead of me on my second day in Florence. Once I finished eating it was off to the Duomo.

If you didn't know, the Duomo is probably Florence's biggest tourist attraction. It's actual name is the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, as "duomo" is simply a word for a cathedral church. Two of the coolest facts that I learned through my guide books are that the dome of the Duomo weighs 37,000 tons and that it took centuries to complete the full buildings construction (which began in 1296, had the dome completed in 1436, and was finally completed in its entirety in 1887).

The side of the Duomo where I waited in line. No clue why I don't have a picture of the front yet. 

Personally, I found that its majesty lies not in its interior but in its facade. The outside is definitely more intricate and beautiful.

Although admittedly Vasari and Zuccari's fresco of the Last Judgement on the inside of the dome did leave me pretty awestruck. 

After waiting in line for an hour (shoulders and knees covered in preparation, just in case), I paid the 8 euros that gave me entrance to the dome. When I said "long trek" at the beginning of this post, I meant it. From bottom to top, there are 463 steps. On my way up, I encountered tight spiral staircases, nearly vertical climbs, and claustrophobic tunnels. I wouldn't call myself unfit, but I was huffing and puffing by the time I finally sat on a bench.


I really wasn't kidding about the stairs. 

But it was beyond worth it.

The vistas from the top were absolutely stunning. I could see all of Florence and looked to the hills in a failed attempt to see the NYU Florence campus. One of my favorite parts of the hills surrounding Florence is that they look so movie-esque and Tuscan. I think it has something to do with the foliage and the architectural style, but it really is sheer perfection.

Greetings from the top of the Duomo!

Pizza for Breakfast

No, I kid you not. On my second day in Florence I ordered pizza for breakfast. Admittedly, breakfast was happening at around 10:30/11:00, but I still found it entertaining.

Once again, I ate at a restaurant within the Piazza della Signoria. I find more and more that I tend to pick certain areas of cities and stick to them (have no fear though, I will be exploring). There's something so pleasant about this area even though it's crowded with tourists. In fact, the tourists may be one of the things that makes it so enjoyable. The people watching is fantastic.

One of the views out from my table. It's better in real life than in the photo. If you notice, because of the heat, they have fans that act as misters in a lot of the restaurants. Each outdoor seating area is also really well done; raised platform floors, railings, and roof coverings (either structural or made of umbrellas) sit outside of each restaurant. 

Breakfast was at Rivoire, which is directly opposite of the Palazzo Vecchio. I had an iced cappuccino and a small pizza. Both were divine. The pizza though...I have yet to stop thinking of it. Far different tasting than any pizza I've had in my life, it consisted of a thickish dough base, a lot of sauce, and little blobs of cheese.

My pizza!

While the waiter here was not memorable (neither great nor bad), the people seating at the table behind me provided ample entertainment. Their table started out as just two girls speaking in unaffected British accents. It was one of their first days of work. I particularly enjoyed this fact as I started and finished my meal after and before them. About thirty minutes in, three other people joined their table (one woman and two men). The woman was wearing a white corset bodice with a double strand of pearls around her neck. Her curly blond hair was piled loosely at the back of her head. The man she was with appeared to be Italian, but could speak both language. The third member of their party snapped pictures throughout the meal.

From what I gathered, the blond woman and the Italian man had just gotten married (in conversation, she was going through what was blue, borrowed, and new) and the other man was their wedding photographer. The woman spoke in a clipped British accent and seemed to be of a certain class where her nose was slightly up in the air. Together as a full party with the other two girls, the conversation shifted between speedy Italian and and English. Quite a wedding lunch I suppose. At the very least, I was happy to be an uninvited sideline guest.

An exterior view of Rivoire. 

First Forays in Food

Admittedly, I've been a bit of a tourist when it comes to food in Florence (or should I say Firenze) thus far. I've knowingly made the faux pas of eating at a place or two with a menu in both English and Italian. However, everyone should be allowed their tourist moments (especially upon first arriving in a place and getting used to a new culture).

My first night here I ate at one of the many restaurants/pizzeria's that fall along the perimeter of the Piazza della Signoria. I sat at one of the outdoor tables at Ristorante Orcagna and looked out at the piazza. To my right stood the Loggia dei Lanzi, which is a structure made up of arches and containing a statue garden. Also in my view was the Palazzo Vecchio, which is one of Florence's most visually recognizable buildings.

A shot of Ristorante Orcagna's outdoor seating by night. Note that you can always enlarge the pictures I post by clicking on them. 

While Florence shines in the daylight sun, it also sparkles at night. Most buildings on the Piazza are lit beautifully. Looking out into the evening crowd, you'd notice little blue light-up flying things being shot into the air. There are a bunch of men who try to sell them to passerby and parents of children. They work with a kind of slingshot mechanism, and while they may possibly be part of a pick-pocketing scheme, sitting at my table it was very pleasant to look at the little blue lights flying higher than the buildings in the piazza at times and slowly drifting back to earth.

My waiter at Ristorante Orcagna was a very nice Italian gentleman named Salvatore. Over the course of the night he made a point to make jokes, ask questions, and even told me a bit about himself. He lives in Florence and has two children. His picture is also on the label of the ristorante's house wine.

It's hard to see here, but on the left side of the bottle Salvatore is pictured waiting on a table. It seems that my transition from Paris to Florence has also transitioned me from Beaujolais to Chianti. 

Speaking of food, dinner consisted of Chianti Rufina to drink, bruschetta as a first course, chicken parm, and tiramisu. I'm starting to get used to the whole olive oil with bread instead of butter with bread thing too. One thing that's still frustrating is attempting to order tap water. While it worked here, at other restaurants I have been to thus far they have provided a bottle of water that you pay for even after having asked for normal tap water. Note to self: must learn how to ask for this in Italian to see if it works better.

This tiramisu was simply divine. Perhaps the best I've ever had. The rum-soaked lady fingers were rich and provided a fantastic texture to the rest of the light dish. 

Regardless, dinner was a lovely two hour affair that was followed by two scoops of gelato from across the square (double dessert was just necessary on the first day). And personally, I found it to be a deliciously sweet way to end the night.  

Friday, August 24, 2012

Ciao Italia!

It seems like ever since I got back from Paris, I've been gearing up for my semester abroad in Florence, Italy. This time around, I'm not studying fashion, but rather taking classes as part of NYU Florence. Classes don't begin until next week, but in the mean time, I'm taking a small vacation.

I arrived in Florence on Wednesday after transferring planes in Frankfurt. My favorite part of the Frankfurt airport? McCafé. Yes, I really just said that. The presentation was exquisite as I drank my delicious cappuccino and ate a candy donut.

Looks yummy, no?

Of course, the coffee was extremely necessary because I didn't sleep on the plane. Instead, I started and finished The Hunger Games. Now I finally get what all the hype is about, but somehow I doubt that the next books in the series could be as good. Anyone disagree?

Anyway, I finally arrived in Florence, which I have to say lives up to its reputation and how it looks in the movies. It's gorgeous and so classically Italian. In comparison to Paris, I would say that it's a) smaller and b) homier. So far so good. 

Days one and two I stayed at the Hotel Continentale, which is right next to the Ponte Vecchio (probably the most famous bridge in Florence). The hotel was gorgeous, had huge rooms, mood lighting, and a mod lobby. Definitely a nice way to start things off. And, I almost forgot to mention, it had AIR CONDITIONING. 

Why am I so obsessed with AC? Because, at the moment, Italy is hot, hot, HOT. Every day has listed a high temperature of 100, with actual temperatures peaking a few degrees above that. I don't think I'll ever get used to saying the temperature in Celsius.


Sweet rooms and mood lighting at the Hotel Continentale

After arriving and taking a brief nap, I got out of the air conditioning and onto the streets. One of the best things about Florence is that many of the streets are closed to cars and even when they aren't people walk on them anyway. It has a very lively vibe and you can feel the culture oozing out of the buildings and the statues that are scattered throughout the city. 

My aimless wanderings took me everywhere from the Piazza della Signoria (perhaps my favorite part of the city thus far) to the Duomo and back to the Ponte Vecchio and the area along the Arno River. 

Piazza della Signoria

Lights along the Arno

While I haven't gone to the museums yet, I have tried the food...and it's magnificent. Seafood, pizza, pasta, bruschetta, gelato...it's all good. 

And with that, I bid you adieu and promise more specifics in my upcoming posts. Ciao!

Thursday, June 21, 2012

Fete de la Musique

            All types of bands covered the streets of Paris this evening for the Fete de la Musique. Started in France in 1976, Fete de la Musique started as a way to celebrate the start of summer and the musical arts. While shopping today, I saw a band sitting on the washing machines of a laverie on Rue Étienne-Marcel. After dinner, I saw three men playing guitar (one had a pink one) by the main church in Alésia. A little further down was another band playing French music. Right next to them: a guy selling cups of beer from two kegs at a little stand. 
            Along with the plethora of street performers spread throughout Paris (more than usual) were other more legitimate concerts. Stages were erected with band line-ups in various parts of the city. The one I saw was in Denfert-Rochereau. What I found incredibly funny here was that the stage was set up right next to the entrance to the Catacombs and all of the people were sitting in the area surrounding it. And when I say "all of the people," I mean numbers equivalent to Central Park SummerStage crowds. Just think, all of those people were drinking and eating (yes, it's legal to consume alcoholic beverages in public here) approximately 130 steps above piles of skulls and bones. 
            Supposedly, the rowdiest party is in the Saint Michel area, but I didn't dare to venture that far. Instead, I leisurely walked back to my room with my friend as we watched the masses of people (the three boys wearing bright yellow and black wigs were our favorites) and enjoyed the faint sounds of music drifting through the air.